Archive: selected stories.

A pressing problem
Nervy Girl, May 2003
Can Europe's new sexual harassment laws curb Italy's workplace wooing?

Alaska: Bears Behind Trees
Road and Travel, September 2006
In Alaska, I hope to miss the forest for the bears. And indeed the state wantonly strews them everywhere: bears prowling through coastal waterfalls, bears nosing in roadside berry patches, bears charging across tidal flats.

Americans and Brits – who has the last laugh?
Oxford Mail, 10 February 2000
A cheeky debate with the great Scots journalist, George Frew

Ancient Olympia: The Field of Dreams
Athens News, 27 June 2003
Olympia enthrals visitors like no other ancient site, because each and every tourist has a connection with that tiny patch of the Peloponnese.

Battle of the Theme Parks
Walt Disney World Resort, the mouse-king of Florida tourism, is losing ground to Universal Entertainment.

Bears Behind Trees
Road and Travel: In Alaska, I hope to miss the forest for the bears. And indeed the state wantonly strews them everywhere: bears prowling through coastal waterfalls, bears nosing in roadside berry patches, bears charging across tidal flats.

Big Rock Candy Mountains: Cappadocia, Turkey
Road and Travel, October 2004
Some are campfire-softened marshmallows, domed and dipped. Others are taffy chews, jerked upwards, lollipops, or peppermint sticks gummed smooth. All the stonescapes have the sugarcoated hues of the sweet shop: pinks, oranges and yellows in comforting childhood pastels.

Big Snow, Bigger Air
Washington State Visitors' Guide 2009
Each February, the “snowiest place on earth,” Mt. Baker Ski Area, hosts the Legendary Banked Slalom. Once the bad-boy event on the professional snowboarding circuit, the slalom’s edge still remains sharp—especially since the area boasts the Road Gap, a launching point where powder hounds catch air over two lanes of car traffic that link the main and upper lodges.ing and skiing athletes.

Birthplace of a love goddess
Road and Travel, February 2003

The Bones of Dead Men: a journey in Calabria
Oxford Mail: "This is a land of earthquakes and malaria, where the brigand Mammone refused to dine without a skull brimming with human blood at the table: good a place as any to honeymoon."

Budapest's bullies, baths and not-so-blue Danube
Athens News, 30 April 2004
Stunning design crippled by chaos and the people-handling skills of a Communist thug

Big Rock Candy Mountains: Cappadocia, Turkey
Road and Travel: All the stonescapes have the sugarcoated hues of the sweet shop: pinks, oranges and yellows in comforting childhood pastels.

Camp David
Oxford Mail: It's not an easy life, but he wouldn't trade those shining moments, where his eccentricity dazzles and his voice blazes over the microphone.

Carbonated coffee and other Transylvanian treats in Romania
Road and Travel, September 2004
I rent a clapped out Mercedes sedan, quite possibly older than me, and head for the hills – or rather the mist-shrouded Carpathian Mountains.

Cappadocia: The surreal landscape where fairies and monks mingle
Athens News: The unique rock formations of Turkey's central region have inspired the human spirit in diverse ways to create fantastic tales and saucy postcards, and even triggering the birth of monasticism

¡Caramba! A Tale Told in Turns of the Card
Bookmarks Magazine, September/October 2004
Debut author Nina Marie Martinez strikes a fresh, feisty pop pose, peppered with Chicana chics, Cal-Mex culture and a Cadillac convertible.

City strokes
Seattle Post-Intelligencer: November 17, 2005
The lake has become a private playground. Each day, at dawn and dusk, needle-nosed shells navigate this secret world, smack in Seattle's center.

Church pushes the power of prayer
Oxford Mail, 23 June, 2000

Cinema City
Moviemaker Magazine, Winter 2005
"Hollywood on the Tiber" survives bombs, near-bankruptcy and blockbusters with bella figura.

City guide snippets
Thisistravel.co.uk: Art Deco style blooms alongside animal sacrifice, drug smugglers drift by beaches covered with sunburnt families. Underneath that clubland veneer, things still disappear in the Everglades.

The cradle of western philosophy
Athens News, 16 January 2004
Once the oldest and most powerful metropolis among the 12 Ionian cities, Miletus now stands in a marshy, neglected landscape

Discworld: Ultimate champions prepare to defend national titles
Seattle Post-Intelligencer: September 27, 2005
Toddlers lurch on the grass. A 41-year-old mother and punky teen sling a Frisbee disc back and forth. The scene could be any park, anywhere in America. Except these are national champions: Cat Pittack and Shannon O'Malley, members of Seattle Riot.

Four decades of the Iguana
MSNBC and Moviemaker: Sun, sin and celluloid in Puerto Vallarta
Forty years ago, John Huston’s gritty Night of the Iguana put Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, on the paparazzi map. Other movies – from Predator to Kill Bill Vol. 2 – have since followed in the big man’s footsteps, capturing the area’s sugary beaches, coastal cliffs and rainforest-swathed Sierra Madre.

Eastern Ireland: myth and melancholy
Road and Travel: December 1, 2005
Such sweeping melancholy is typical of Ireland's eastern coast. Something's in the jagged North Sea spray, the granite-chunked crags and the heather that creeps in on little cat feet. And that something erodes and erases and exiles. Bones bleach into fable. Whiskey washes away fact. Then ivy muffles it all into mythology.

Electric Ladyland: Medellin, Colombia
Road and Travel, February 15, 2007
Never mind that smugglers, paramilitaries, leftist guerillas and government troops still clash in the corrugated countryside. A new nose or cleavage costs about 60 percent less than in the States. Andale!

The enchanted 'isle of rubbish'
Athens News, 11 July 2003
Zakynthos is an island of rubbish – or so locals claim. Legends insist that God, after creating the world, swept the odds and ends into the ocean. And that mound became the third-largest of the Ionian Islands.

England's Coal Coast
Road and Travel, June 2006
The scion of Serenity Hall is silent. I am neither a tree-hugger, nor, it seems, tree-hugged. But I do take away something deeper from the coal coast, so stripped by the sea and corroded by commerce: a harsh and haunting landscape that somehow preserves the calm after the storm.

Europe’s Cinderella: Greece’s capital turns rags to riches – and Olympic gold in 2004
Road and Travel, 1 June 2003

Ephesus: From Amazons to Alexander
Athens News, 28 May 2004
Its history is peppered with mighty figures: Rich King Croesus, Alexander the Great, the Persian ruler Cyrus, the doomed lovers Mark Anthony and Cleopatra, and their nemesis, the Emperor Augustus. The area also draws Christian pilgrims, as the final resting place of the Apostle John and the Virgin Mary.

A Fair Sight
Washington State Visitors' Guide 2009
"Be a Loval Lover,” a retro poster instructs. “Think local. Buy local. Be local.” That’s an easy-enough task in Fairhaven, Bellingham’s historic district, which packs more than 300 small businesses into a few square, red-brick blocks a couple of miles south of downtown.

The Fine Art of Restoration
Wired: Bringing an old painting back to life has long been a touchy affair – and one that's as much about interpretation as restoration. But increasingly, art conservators are turning to high tech tools to analyze famous pieces, removing the guesswork. (See also the pre-edited version)

Food Fight
In These Times, 9 May 2003
Europe and America gear up for a confrontation at the WTO

From Mudflat to Mouth
Shellfish are an abundant treasure on the coast
Washington State Visitors' Guide 2009
Sunset gilds Samish Bay, and the San Juan Islands fade into the china-blue horizon. “This may be the best view I’ve ever had from a restaurant,” says Jessica Mintz, of Seattle, as she slurps half-shells on the deck.

From poems to mining pits and pedicures
Pulse, Summer 2006
A destination spa – once the site of Lord Byron's wedding –- revives a Northeastern English village

The glory that is Greece
Moviemaker, Spring 2006
Like the city itself, Never on Sunday is a glorious mix of impulse and intellect. Best of all, it addresses that very topic: The plot pits beauty (a prostitute full of joie de vivre) against the beast (an American philosopher, intent on proving that western civilization collapsed because it placed sensuality above sensibility).

Greece 2004: beyond the Olympics
Thisistravel.co.uk, February 2004
Many families are hesitant to plunge into the crowded, smoggy capital at peak season. They want a taste of Greek glamour – without eating the whole souvlaki. The solution couldn’t be more pleasant: head to the islands. After all, the nation boasts 227 options (and that’s just the inhabited ones).

Greece’s First Lady of Hospitality
Travel Age West, 2 June 2003
Glinting with gilt and marble, the Hotel Grande Bretagne is ready to resume its role in history. The French Renaissance mansion has hosted spies, kings, industrialists and stars, prompting its gracious title "the First Lady of Hospitality".

Greek myths and legends
Time Out Athens, 2004
The Hellenic deities certainly weren’t exactly role models. They lied, cheated, squabbled and toyed ruthlessly with humans. See also the A–Z of Greek Gods.

Hardy Divers Sculpt a Silent World at Edmonds Underwater Park
Seattle Post-Intelligencer, July 16, 2008
A man wades into the ocean with a wheelbarrow full of concrete blocks ... sounds like a joke setup, right? Except no funny stuff's going down in Edmonds, just the work crew at the city's underwater park.

Hero worship
Time Out Athens, 2004
Ancient Greece is hot property in Hollywood right now, as studios scramble to launch a new generation of sword-and-sandal epics. (‘Toga saga’, another genre description batted about, is, of course, technically inaccurate: Ancient Greeks dressed in chitons, which doesn’t quite have the same ring to it.)

The Hamilton Case: Intellect and Identity Clash in the Colonies
Bookmarks Magazine, September/October 2004
Michelle de Kretser artfully captures the human condition and exotic texture of 1948 colonial Ceylon with nary a whiff of Merchant Ivory patness.

A happy ending for a legendary pirate haven
Athens News, 22 August 2003
Nafpaktos is a fairy-tale land. Only a fire-snorting dragon could improve the ambience.

Heat is on GM backers
Oxford Mail: Concerns led to a ban on commercial planting of GM crops until 2003. However, protesters would like to see a longer ban and more laboratory research. Many, like Mr Foulk, want a moratorium on GM animal feed as well.

Honduras: Calm as a Hurricane's Eye
Winner of the Lowell Thomas bronze, 2007, adventure writing
Road and Travel: Everything in Honduras is slow, slow as I've never experienced. Heat leaches muscle fiber, skeletal strength and all ambition. Coral sand grits under my bare feet, after the espadrilles unlace. Even the lightning pulses long and lazy on the ocean's horizon. Tropical diving downshifts yet another gear, if such a thing is possible.

Hong Kong: It's still eastern Hollywood
Moviemaker, Autumn 2005
Hong Kong glitters like a circuit board. Mirrored glass – not just blue, but pink and gold and green – reflects the sultry light of the South China Sea. Big thunderclouds boil across this neon-swathed cityscape. Brooding, bright and quicksilver, the landscape perfectly personifies the Fragrant City's cinema.

Hong Kong: Diary of a Gweipo
travelgirl, March 2006
The Fragrant Island, frankly, confuses me. Capitalist guilt and it-girl greed fuse my brain. Should I nab some Louis Vuitton Epi bargains? Barter for a black-market movie? Saddle my bureau with yet another inlaid jewel box, ethically purchased from a co-operative of oppressed artists? Torn, I do the only thing conceivable: dance until dawn in a scarlet wig and pink aviator glasses.

A hoss, a hat and haute cuisine: C Lazy U Ranch, Colorado
Road and Travel and MSNBC: December 2004
Riding a roan mare among the sweeping mesas and aspen glades of the Continental Divide

Hysteric glamour: Hong Kong, China
Road and Travel, August 2005
Glitz and grit collide in the Fragrant City. This cosmopolitan consumeropolis was once a pirate outpost, then a port trading in tea, silk and opium. From a barren rock, Hong Kong grew into one of the world’s densest cities with seven million residents.

Ischia: The Green Island of Eternal Youth
Italy Daily: The warm informal "ciao" is on every lip – and seems heartfelt. Locals stop and chat, heedless of unlocked doors. It’s a small, safe place, determined to stay that way. The village embraces tourism but doesn’t succumb to it. Sidebar

Irish Fighting
The Celtic Tiger now courts moviemakers in the capital and countryside
Moviemaker Winter 2006
“Ireland did not care a fart in its courduroys for any kind of art whatsoever,” Samuel Beckett once announced. He wasn't the first genius to seek shelter abroad: Jonathan Swift, Oscar Wilde, George Bernard Shaw and James Joyce all exited stage left. The inhospitable creative-culture continued into the 1950s, when poet Patrick Kavanagh described Dublin as “the cruellest city on earth.” Fifty years later, the capital couldn't be more different.

Ischia: The Green Island of Eternal Youth
Italy Daily: The warm informal "ciao" is on every lip – and seems heartfelt. Locals stop and chat, heedless of unlocked doors. It’s a small, safe place, determined to stay that way. The village embraces tourism but doesn’t succumb to it. Sidebar

Journey to the volcano's sapphire heart
Athens News: The blast – the most powerful in human history – detonated with the strength of 150 hydrogen bombs. Three-quarters of Santorini vanished, leaving only a rind, curving around a six-kilometre-wide bowl of blue ... Read more articles on Greece.

Judging a book by its cover
Roman Bookbinder, Daniela Bevilacqua, 79, puts pages together the old-fashioned way

Lions, luxury and lessons learned
Bank Travel Mangement, Winter 2007
Southern Africa is a potent place, one that evokes big-screen reactions from locals and visitors alike.

A Look Under the Hood
Cold-water divers explore Puget Sound's jade underbelly
Seattle Post-Intelligencer, March 22, 2007
I grew up on the coast of Puget Sound, galloping along drift logs and squelching across mud flats. Yet the inland ocean remained a cipher: a reflecting pond for the snow-shadowed mountains.
Now I've plunged through the looking glass.

Love for the Land
A deal for you and nature (voluntourism)
January 17, 2008
This is real work. Not some "green-washed" publicity exercise. Volunteers completed 85-90% of the labor on this trail spur.

Messing Around in Boats
Road and Travel, January 2005
A British narrowboat excursion certainly ranks among a few of the world's favorite things, along with raindrops on roses and whiskers on kittens, bright copper kettles and warm woolen mittens.

Mining, music and moonshine
Road and Travel: September 15, 2005
Banjo notes cascade over the bourbon-colored river. Hidden among the oaks and magnolias, a fiddle embroiders the Appalachian folk tune. Our paddles pause, then stop. We drift downstream, two city slickers in a canoe, trespassers amongst the hills of southeastern Kentucky.

MSN Daily Access
April 2008
Columns included Dubai, Colombia, babymoons, roadside kitsch and accidental cybertourists.

MSN Daily Access
March 2008
Columns included Vegas, voluntourism, go-karting and May morning.

MSN Daily Access
February 2008
Columns included Seussmania, Saint Patrick's Day in Ireland, negative ions and home swaps.

MSN Daily Access
January 2008
Columns included banger rallies; a desert rave in Wadi Rum, Jordan; heart-healthy spas; and the Lightning Field, New Mexican land art.

MSN Daily Access
December 2008
Columns included pod hotels, the Quebec Snow Bath, where to learn to dive and riding African elephants – who are volunteers.

MSN Daily Access
November 2008
My new column included ghetto tours and Dolce&Gabbana's new eatery in Milan.

Muddy Waters: Budapest, Hungary
Road and Travel, November 2004
Everyone tries to like Budapest. Eastern Europe is trendy – and the recent EU expansion only added cache.

Mushing in the Rocking Mountains
Road and Travel, March 2005
Tongue flapping, the spotted mongrel churned the chest-deep snow. He lunged, twisting on the tugline: just one bell on the tangled wind chime of baying hounds. Then – hike! – the team shot forward over the crusted powder

My Sister's Keeper
Bookmarks Magazine, June 2004
Ever fearless, novelist Jodi Picoult tackles a biomedical controversy: is it fair to create a life to save a life?

A new era for Ischia
Athens News, 28 November 2003
The island of Ischia, Capri's overlooked neighbour in the Bay of Naples, is heating up, luring tourists with natural hot springs, serenity and the famous garden of British composer William Walton

Norway: Old Brave World
Road and Travel, December 2006
The Zodiac slaps up the fjord. I crouch in the bow, one hand laced under the plastic lifeline, the other holding my fleece hat. Norway smells of firs and salmon and saltspray. The Arctic breeze holds an undertone of iceberg too.

Olympic Challenges
The Daily Mail: Athens has embraced the Olympic motto –- "swifter, higher, stronger" – as the city prepares for the 2004 Summer Games. It may also have added "dearer"...

Oxford Intelliguide (update)
November 11, 2005
Home to the country's oldest university, Oxford is eccentric, engaging and personable – epitomizing the spirit of Old England in many ways.

Patra: Emerging from the Sirens’ Shadows
Athens News, 6 June 2003

Patras: A Glimpse Beyond the Porthole
Road and Travel, and Travel Age West, March 2006
Patras' renown is partly due to its carnival. One of the world's largest after Venice and Rio de Janeiro, it attracts around half a million people mid-January to mid-March. The Treasure Hunt remains a highlight: hundred-strong teams – many with goofy names like "Blue Flames" or "Golf Sexperience"–- comb the city for hidden prizes.

Petra, Jordan: A life in ruins
Road and Travel: June 2005
Hooves tattoo down the Siq, that sinuous half-mile crack of canyon. Dusk drips down the walls. Gods squat in the shadows; ancient desert lords hacked into the scarlet sandstone. We cower, alone and forsaken.

Pink Tanks
travelgirl Oct/Nov
Mermaids, trade your seashells for a wetsuit and scuba tank to combat breast cancer. America's Dive for the Cure debuts October 5-7 in Seattle, Washington.

Pink Tanks
Despite an explosion and freak currents,
divers and cancer survivors make the world a rosier place
Northwest Dive News, December 2007
Michelle Reid drifts towards the sandy bottom, bookended by instructors. Water scares this Maple Valley mother. She hyperventilates snorkeling. "As a kid, I cried for the first year of swim lessons." Still, Reid descends five feet, ten feet, twenty – eyes wide, bubbles shiny as Mylar balloons in spruce-colored Puget Sound.

The pixie behind the pixels
Cnet: Model Lucy Clarkson now slips into the halter top and gun harness of cyberspace’s pinup.

Prosecco and the City
Ten reasons to hold your next singleton celebration in Milan
travelgirl, Dec/Jan 2008
Mid-April's Salone – dedicated to furniture and all things haute for the home – has outstripped the fashion extravaganzas here. Everyone's sucking in their cheeks and sucking down their featherweights in saffron risotto. Parties blur between galleries. Art installations jam traffic. The Brera district boils, then reduces down to a seven-day block-party in Moschino, Miu Miu, and MaxMara.

Puerto Vallarta, A Town 'Built on a Film'
Four Decades of the Iguana: Sun, Sin and Celluloid
Moviemaker Magazine: Winter 2004
Forty years ago, John Huston’s gritty Night of the Iguana put Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, on the paparazzi map. Other movies – from Predator to Kill Bill Vol. 2 – have since followed in the big man’s footsteps, capturing the area’s sugary beaches, coastal cliffs and rainforest-swathed Sierra Madres.

Rime of the Ailing Mariner
Seattle Post-Intelligencer, February 23, 2006
Sun syrups over the freshly frosted Olympics and the gilded cones of Baker and Rainier. The sails hang slack like old lettuce. Capt. Samantha Haney pronounces this glorious winter day "as close to shorts weather as Seattle ever gets." Yet my breakfast trails in the wake.

Roman Traffic Alfresco
Italy, A Love Story, July 2005
A coin cast into the Trevi Fountain ensures a return to Rome, according to folklore. My motivation won't be the art, the ruins, the fine wines and food, however precious. No, my euro is for another shot at Zen and the art of moped mayhem.

Romantic Rendezvous
Road and Travel, February 2005
From the Queen Mary 2 to a French Kissing Festival, Claddagh rings to Crusaders' castles, here are ROAD & TRAVEL Magazine's top picks for romance in the stone streets of Europe.

Rome's Papal Highway
Italy Daily: The best laid plans of mice and men often go astray. And for the Via Giulia, the result couldn’t be more charming.

Roughing It In Style
Cocktails in the wilderness, hiking boots
in the boardroom: wild child Seattle balances work and play

travelgirl Feb/Mar
2008
Its 600,000-odd inhabitants care more about snow-pack than stock options and society galas ... “This may be the slacker-genius capital of the world,” a native once observed.

A sacred city re-emerging from the ruins
Athens News, 4 July 2003
Messolongi's soil is stained by the blood of heroes. The town is mighty, but morbid and marshy: Not the most obvious choice for a carefree holiday, in other words.

Santorini: Star of the Cyclades
Road and Travel, July 2004
Countless Greek promotional posters, which peddle the whitewashed walls, azure domes and sheer volcanic crescent of cliffs, cutaway like a child's diorama, revealing the Aegean's geological secrets.

At the Seashore with Medea
A Marriage Unravels in Athens
Greece, A Love Story; March 2007
Plum shadows outline the Parthenon. This buttress of land, the art upon it – defying time and Turkish detonations – are so ancient. The moon even more so, a bruised apricot. My woes, suspended briefly between the two, have no weight.

Seattle Coffee: Are You Experienced?
Trip Magazine May/June 2005
Forget Jimi Hendrix and Kurt Cobain. Ignore Bill Gates, even if he's the planet's arch plutocrat. The split-tail mermaid overshadows them all.

Seattle Intelliguide (update)
November 11, 2005
Funky and liberal, the "Emerald City" remains proud of its blend of natural beauty and kooky culture.

Simon perfects the art of taking the mickey
Oxford Mail, 1 March 2000

Sparky island spirit uncorrupted by Corelli
Athens News, 20 June 2003
Kefalonia didn't submit easily to the Normans or the Turks or the Germans ... or the cloying clutches of Captain Corelli's Mandolin.

Spray away on the walls and the web
Italy Daily: Internet graffiti gallery has a preservationist role

Spoonful of sugar
Slovenia's first design-hotel and spa
Road and Travel, June 2007
The spa's list echoes its broad-church ethos, stretching even to Tibetan gong treatments. The clear-eyed, beaming therapist places bronze-colored cauldrons around my body, then taps them with a padded mallet. Apparently the "singing bowls" are harmonically aligning my aura. "Some tart's banging pots on me," the Monty Pythonesque part of my brain trills.

Summoning Spring in Oxford
MSNBC, March 2005
England’s 'city of dreaming spires' sacrifices its beauty sleep to celebrate May morning.

Stone Cold Beauty
Road and Travel, July 2006
After a breakup, some women binge on chocolate. Others buy shoes. I went to the Balkans: substituting wander for lust. Oh yes, I was in Feisty Femme mode, all right. Forget heartbreak. Bring on the beer and borscht!

The surreal landscape where fairies and monks mingle
Athens News, 5 December 2003
The unique rock formations of Turkey's central region have inspired the human spirit in diverse ways to create fantastic tales and saucy postcards, and even triggering the birth of monasticism

Sweat baths and skeeter-cures: Helsinki, Finland
Road and Travel, July 2005
Below the calmness and chic design lies coffee-fuelled eccentricity. Under the midnight sun, Helsinki heats up with vodka, saunas and tango.

Takin' it to the Streets
Seattle Post-Intelligencer, November 5, 2008
In full scrimmage, they weave like alley cats, grind together like monster trucks, freeze into track stands: perfectly balanced on the pedals and as still as the Space Needle. Insanely agile, they're also street players – all rollies and hoodies on thrashed, chopped, thrift-store cycles. Urban bike polo. So gritty. So graceful. The mix deserves its own word: grungelegant, perhaps.

Tangled up in Wild Blue
Single State of the Union, February 2007
The ship slid from the dock, my dreams churning in its wake. I wanted so very badly to go, go, go, get gone from the tulip fields, the silage and sleech of Skagit Valley.

The tide's out and dinner's on
Harvesting seaweed on the shore
Seattle Post-Intelligencer, August 22, 2007
My foot hooks the prey and draws it close. Then I cut through the cold, satin flesh of a bullwhip kelp.
I am licensed to kill with an $11 shellfish and seaweed permit. Earthwalk Northwest, a School of Primitive Living Skills, is teaching me to "eat the beach" on Lopez Island in the San Juan archipelago.

The Temp
Oxford Times: She was careful to add depth and gravity to The Temp "I didn't want it to be another 'chick lite' book," Serena admits. And it isn't. The giddiness descends into trauma, followed by an intricate revenge, like a Greek drama.

Treasured Islands
Alaskan Airlines Magazine: Pigs, chickens and children amble across the tens roads of Samoa. That’s OK; even traffic moseys in this Polynesian archipelago. Its 193,000 inhabitants still fish and farm taro, despite their day jobs. And fales – the traditional thatched, open-air pavilions – front even the swankiest of modern homes. Fa’a Samoa (the Samoan way of life) flows unabated, although TVs and mobiles chime into the mix as the nation approaches its 50th anniversary in 2012.

Triple Threat – Honduras
Sport Diver, Dec/Jan 09
Even lightning slows in the Bay Islands of Honduras. It pulses long and lazy on the sea's edge, as if uncertain whether to head for the hammock or pop another Salva Vida (Lifesaver) beer. But that's the allure here, where pirates once mingled with indigenous groups of Indians and the Afro-Caribbean Garifuna.

The Venice of Scotland
Road and Travel, July 2003
Don't expect to see and be seen. Kirkcudbright is all about introspection and natural beauty.

Utah Revival
Scuba Diving Magazine: Among the hermits and speedracers of Bonneville’s salt flats, misfit fish thrive in desert hot springs ...

Visit the birthplace of a love goddess
Daily Mail: Aphrodite, goddess of love, is said to have sprung from the sea-foam off the coast of Cyprus. Amanda Castleman explores the ultimate Valentine's destination...

Where Baroque baths meet Communist chic
This is Travel, 19 September 2003
My first glimpse of Budapest was the Nyugati train station, an odd blend of Victorian ironwork, eastern Bloc grime and a slick blue-glass mall. This mishmash, not without its charms, is repeated throughout Hungary's capital.

Wild and wicket: extreme croquet
Seattle Post-Intelligencer, June 2005
In this game, there's no such thing as a level playing field

Players take a genteel picnic pastime into all-terrain overdrive, hacking across rotten logs and mole holes. Locally, the Lakewood Croquet Club holds court.

Zen and Art of Moped Mayhem in the Eternal City
Road and Travel and MSNBC, June 2003
All roads do lead to Rome, specifically to Piazza Venezia. It's a swirling, sucking whirlpool of metal. And I'm riding the wave bareback on a beat-up moped. This is Italian traffic, al fresco.


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